Trastevere restaurants food guide
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The Tastiest Trastevere Restaurants & Foodie Spots – From Breakfast To Dessert



You likely heard a lot about Trastevere and its restaurants already, but you might be pondering whether it’s an area of Rome you should visit. Well, let me tell you that you should at least spend half a day roaming the streets of this unique neighborhood, and a few nights tasting its delicious food options.

Of course, if you prefer, you can also have breakfasts and lunches here. 

In this foodie guide to Trastevere I will share with you the top Trastevere food spots, you can enjoy from morning to night, and a few all-nighters too! These include my personal favorites, as well as a few other restaurants recommended by locals.

And while I do so, I will give you a glimpse, through my pictures, into what Trastevere looks like.

It’s going to get really tasty, and charming.

PS: All suggested posts will be coming in the next few weeks. As I post them I will also add them here.

How To Get To Trastevere?

First things first, your first question will likely be “How do I actually get there?”.

Let’s take 3 central points of attractions in Rome – the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, and the Colosseum, and use them as our starting point.

Walking to Trastevere we’ll take 15 mins from the Pantheon, 30 minutes from the Fontana di Trevi, and 40 minutes from the Colosseo. That’s only if you walk to the beginning of Trastevere.

You’ll still need at least an hour more to explore all the restaurants, the other points of attractions, and one delicious dessert spot you likely don’t want to miss (plus an hour more to walk back).

Your best option is to take a bus or a tram, and that’s very easy. It will still take you 30 to 40 minutes, but you can stop at the delicious dessert spot I will share with you in a minute (which is the last point worth visiting, and it’s conveniently located 2 minutes away from the Trastevere bus, tram, and train station).

From there, it’s going to be one straight walk (not literally, as there are many winding streets in the older part) towards the heart of Trastevere.

The best part is that once you reach the heart of Trastevere, you can walk to the other side of Rome in just 10 minutes, by crossing the Sisto Bridge over the Tiber River. 

Trastevere By Public Transport

Take these buses/trams to reach Trastevere bus station from these locations:

  1. From Pantheon – Take tram 8 from Arenula/ Cairoli stop, or buses 780/170 from Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli
  2. From Trevi Fountain – Take tram 8 from Venezia stop, or bus 170 from Quattro Novembre/S. Apostoli stop.
  3. From the Colosseum – Take the 3L bus from Colosseo/Salvi N stop.

Transport Notes & Tips

  • If you didn’t know already, you can buy tickets for public transportation in Rome at most tobacco shops. They are called “Tabaccheria” in Italian.
  • You can use the same ticket on buses, trams, and metro lines within Rome.
  • For trams and buses, you can take as many lines as you need, in any direction, within the first 100 minutes of stamping your ticket.
  • You need to stamp your ticket at the beginning of your journey.
  • Most buses have a yellow box for stamping your ticket.
  • Alternatively, you can buy a day pass that will allow you free traveling within Rome for the entire day. That pass needs to be tapped every time you hop on a bus, tram, or metro, using a different touchscreen machine (it’s maroon and gray).
  • The 100 minutes ticket costs €1.50 per person and the 24-hour card costs €7 per person.

How to find your bus/tram stop?

The easiest way is to go on Google Maps and type the stop name, then follow the walking directions to reach it, and head there.

For us, it worked every time, except maybe two times when there wasn’t the name of the stop on Google. In that case, we found the name of the street with the bus stop name, and the bus stop was always located in that street. Alternatively, you could find the next stop or take a different bus.

Best Breakfast Spots In Trastevere

If you’ve decided to spend the entire day in Trastevere, well done, as that will allow you to have breakfast, lunch, and dinner plus a snack and an ice cream too.

That means you are arriving early in Trastevere, so skip breakfast or leave room for a second one.

As soon as you hop off the bus and tram you took to get here, you should be at Trastevere station if you followed the directions I gave you earlier. 

That’s perfect because you only need to walk 3 minutes to get to the delicious dessert/breakfast post I teased you about earlier.

1. Il Maritozzaro

In Via Ettore, 50, Trastevere, Roma

It’s the famous Maritozzaro, and from the name alone you’ll likely understand that this place is famous for the iconic Roman Maritozzi, so famous that it’s named after them. 

Warning: Don’t go on a Monday, like we did, as it opens at 7pm. All the other days, except Sunday, it’s open all day and night! On Sundays, it closes at 7pm.

Why is this worth going?

Look at the 3k reviews with over 4.5 rating. And then look at the pictures on Google. Il Maritozzaro has the best maritozzi in Rome, and also a wide selection of breakfast pastries.

After tasting 3 other maritozzi in Rome, including the most famous (you can read about that experience in my Rome Breakfast article), there was a lot left for improvement, so we were really excited to try the maritozzi at Il Maritozzaro. Alas, when we arrived it was closed. Our fault, as we didn’t double check the opening hours.

Don’t make the same mistake and go try them when it’s open!

Samuel says: “This place was a two-minute walk from my hotel. I decided to give it a shot and it was literally the best thing I ate that day. Their whipped crème filled buns are to die for!!“

If you are planning to have more than one breakfast in Trastevere, or you are staying in this neighborhood, here are two other breakfast spots that are highly recommended by both locals and tourists.

2. Bar Baffo Caffe Vergnano

In Viale di Trastevere, 343, Rome

They have deliciously looking tarts (crostate), croissants, treccine, occhi di bue (butter sandwich biscuits with filling), bombe (stuffed sugar donuts), and more. You will be spoiled for choice!

This one is also 2 minutes away from Trastevere station. That means, if you plan to use this station to take buses to other parts of Rome, it’s the best breakfast spot to head to before you hop on the bus.

3. Pasticceria Trastevere

In Via Natale del Grande, 49, Trastevere, Rome

Located on the other end of Trastevere, in the older part that’s closer to the river , this one is a great spot if you are staying in the area or walking from the other side of Rome (Pantheon, Trevi, Colosseum).

Not only do they have so many pastries and biscuit options, but they also have several tarts and cakes. The crostata di visciole (a local cherry variety) looks delicious, and so does the plumcake. 

Where To Have A Great Aperitivo in Trastevere?

These are the 3 spots I tried:

1. L’Elementare –

This was my favorite aperitivo spot in Rome.

The vibes are perfect, vibrant but not too busy if you are early like we did, close to the river to walk back to the center of Rome, and the service and food were amazing too.

Read my food review of L’Elementare here.

2. Ivo a Trastevere –

Ivo was our favorite restaurant experience in Rome. It was also our last dinner in Rome, so we headed there early with the plan to have aperitivo and dinner. Now, I wished we also had their tasty tiramisu, but we were so stuffed that that sounded impossible at the time.

We tried their classic homemade potato crisps and two supplì on the menu, and everything was delicious. The chips were the best we ever tasted, and so was the classic supplì!

3. Il Maritozzo Rosso –

We had a small aperitivo in their Prati restaurant. The place looked beautiful, both the area and interiors, but we had to sit outside as it was fully booked, and it was pretty cold that night. Hence, why we cut it short.

We ordered an Aperol spritz each and my husband tried their Maritozzo Amatriciana. The drinks were probably the best of the trip, head to head with l’Elementare, whereas the savory maritozzo was nothing special.

I am still recommending this spot as the sister restaurant in Trastevere looks better for an aperitivo, because of the location and vibes, and the menu is also different.

Be aware though, that this place looks tiny, so you need to go early! They open at 6.30 in the evening but they are also open around lunch time, in case you want an early drink & snack.

Mimi e Coco Trastevere

Other Aperitivo Spots In Trastevere

These are the other spots I wished I had time to try, so they are going to go on my list for my next time in Rome.

  1. Mimi e Coco Trast – I loved the location and the vibes when passing by, plus the meatballs and mortadella pinsa look delicious.
  2. Dar Poeta – The crostini and suppli have my name on them. I spotted this and their tasty pizzas while walking and taking pictures in Trastevere.
  3. Caramella – Everything looks delicious here, so I wouldn’t stop at aperitivo and keep going with pasta and pizza!

Two Beautiful Churches In Trastevere
Before you head to dinner, make sure to visit the Basilica di Santa Maria a Trastevere. It closes at 8.30 pm most days. It’s really nice, and you can get the chance to sit down if you’ve been walking for a long time.

An even nicer church in my opinion is the Basilica di Santa Cecilia a Trastevere. There’s a nice garden outside, and I was surprised by how gorgeous this church is. It’s only the first church I have seen with a glass door. You’ll understand what I mean once you visit. Don’t miss it!

The Tastiest Trastevere Restaurants 

When you type best restaurants in Trastevere you’ll see these 3 pop up:

Trattoria Da Enzo Al 29
Il Duca In Trastevere

Trastevere restaurants & neighborhood

Tonnarello has 67k reviews and an average 4.7 stars. So I checked it out, and it doesn’t look that bad but it doesn’t wow me enough to try it. In any case, trying one of these would mean every other tourist is going to be there too, so it’s going to be busy and not really authentic.

That’s why I like to look beyond the first results until I find those hidden gems few are talking about that are worth trying.

I must say it wasn’t that easy for Rome. Since it’s such a popular city, visited by millions of tourists from all over the world, popular restaurants get incredibly busy, and when they do people turn to the lesser known, so even those are no longer so hidden.

Let’s look at what the locals suggest. These are the ones I had shortlisted from looking at various Italian sources.

Ivo a Trastevere restaurant

Ivo a Trastevere (My Favorite Trastevere Restaurant)  

In Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 158, Rome

This one came highly recommended by Roma Today.

My first impressions when researching this were that the entire menu looked delicious, so much so that I told my husband that this was the restaurant I was excited about the most. 

I was right since it turned out to be the best one of the trip, according to both my husband and I, and I am pretty sure all those happy customers stuffing their faces around us agree too.

The place was packed on a Thursday early evening, so I can’t imagine what happens on the weekend after 9pm. They stay open till midnight!

We ordered these dishes:

The bill came to just under €45, which I think is a really good price for the quality and authenticity of the food and restaurant, not to mention how tasty it all was. And the servers are so funny that you get free entertainment too :).

Pasta e Vino Come ‘na Vorta

5 locations

This osteria is a very popular one in Rome and is one of those that are conveniently located with 5 different spots around Rome. They have 3 in Trastevere and another 2 spots on the other side of the river, closer to the Pantheon and other attractions.

You might be wondering why I chose this one since my aim was to dine at lesser known restaurants. Well, the first time I came across the restaurant, it was the one in Vicolo dei Cinque. This one has under 200 reviews and 4.1 ratings, plus the food and ambiance looked so good that I thought this was a hidden gem. Only after I realized there were 4 other more popular spots, but I was so eager to try it that I still kept it on my list.

Pasta e Vino come na vorta Rome restaurant

Was I right?

This is definitely a touristy spot. We dined at the restaurant in Torre Argentina, and loved both location and service. It was quick and the server was very friendly, plus we set outside and had a nice view of the Area Sacra di Torre Argentina, where there are the ruins of 4 Republican temples and Pompey’s Theatre.

The food was good but not amazing. We only had one pasta each as we weren’t super hungry that night. I chose lasagna and my husband had the spaghetti cacio e pepe. The Cacio e Pepe was good but not the best. You can find the best here, where I review and compare 3 different ones in Rome.

My lasagna had too much mozzarella when the recipe should call for parmesan only. There was so much of it, that I could barely taste any pasta, just mozzarella and sauce.

Do I suggest it?

Look at the pictures and see whether the food attracts you. In my opinion, the food looks good but there are better options out there. I just wanted to share the experience I had, as it can’t always be all moonlight and roses.

To be honest this was our second attempt that night. We wanted to go to Osteria da Zi Umberto, but they kept not answering the phone, and we didn’t want to go without a booking, since the location was not easy to reach from where we were.

Do you need to book restaurants in Rome?

We never did, but we always went early so we were able to be seated outside and enjoy our food without issues. If you plan to go later, you should definitely book all your restaurants, unless you are visiting in Winter, when it’s likely to be quieter.

Osteria da Zi Umberto

In Piazza di S. Giovanni della Malva, 14, Trastevere, Rome

Speaking of Zi Umberto, their restaurant is in Trastevere, so I had to include it in this foodie guide. When I found it online while researching the best restaurants in Rome, I thought this food really looks homemade and tasty, and I must try it.

Our plan was to go on Saturday evening, but then my back started aching and we postponed it to Sunday, but ended up never going. I can’t tell you what I would have ordered, other than the gnocchi, because I can’t find their menu online.

This is why this restaurant intrigues me so much. I mean who doesn’t put a menu online?

If you go make sure to also try their Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe as I have heard they make one of the best in all of Rome!

Checco er Carrettiere

In Via Benedetta, 10, Trastevere, Rome

I found this recommendation on Gambero Rosso and I first thought that the food here looked very homemade, like my grandma made it.

Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to try this one, but had I been able to, this is what I would have ordered:

Antipasto fritto Romano
Carciofi alla Giudia
Frittata di patate
Bombolotti alla amatriciana
Spaghetti cacio e pepe
Crostata di visciole

La Fraschetta di Porta Portese Trastevere authentic restaurant

La Fraschetta di Porta Portese

In Largo Alessandro Toja, 2, Trastevere, Rome

La Fraschetta di Porta Portese was recommended by Effetto Food. When we walked past it it was early afternoon so too early to have dinner and too late for lunch.

This spot is located at the end of Trastevere, 10 minutes walk from the Trastevere station I mentioned at the beginning of this post.

When I first looked into it I thought the food looks very local and the place had a casual and friendly atmosphere. These first impressions were confirmed when I walked past this restaurant and stopped to look inside and take pictures.

I am adding this to the restaurants to try next time, and here’s what I am going to order, unless they change the menu:

Stuzzichino platter
Millefoglie di porchetta e patate
Spaghetti alla Carbonara
Rigatoni all’Amatriciana

They also have a few fritters among their pictures that look incredible, but I can’t see them listed on the menu. Have a look, and ask for them, if you too are intrigued.

Trattoria degli Amici Trastevere

La Trattoria degli Amici

In Piazza di S. Egidio, 6, Trastevere, Rome

This is another great spot in Trastevere, one I also found through Effetto food online, and then walked past during my time in Trastevere.

This was the only spot that was closed when we visited. That’s because it closes at 3pm and opens again at 7pm. 

The location is perfect. It’s in the heart of Trastevere, yet they managed to find a spot that is secluded and feels more tranquil than the other restaurants I shared in this guide. They have outdoor seating too, and I can imagine at night it’s going to look really romantic with all the twinkly lights on.

The food looks authentic and very good. This is what I’d likely go for:

Suppli classico
Fried squash flowers
Gnocchi al ragu
Fettuccine with tomatoes, basil & bufala mozzarella
Stinco di maiale con patate al forno
Tiramisu or Sbriciolata tart (or both)

After trying all of the above, I wouldn’t mind comparing them to the most popular restaurants in Rome: Tonnarello and Osteria da Fortunata. The latter is not in Trastevere, but it’s just a 10 minute walk away.

Best Pizza In Trastevere

I have written a full article on which pizza types to try in Rome, why, and where. You can read that one here.

Many of those restaurants, at least 3, happen to be in this area of Rome. These include:

  1. L’Elementare for aperitivo & pizza
  2. Pizzeria la Boccaccia for pizza by the meter
  3. Ivo a Trastevere for a very authentic Roman dinner, including pizza.

Best Desserts In Trastevere Including Gelato

Every time of the day is the right time for a treat when you are on holiday, don’t you think? If you walk as much as we do (nearly 30k a day), you’ll burn those calories off in 2 to 3 hours.

I have 4 sweet spots to suggest to you in this beautiful Roman neighborhood.

1. Otaleg Ice Cream

In Via di S. Cosimato, 14a, Trastevere, Rome

This was the first thing we ate in Trastevere, and it went down a treat considering we had been walking for nearly 2 hours.

The queue was quite long, expectedly so since this comes highly recommended by il Gambero Rosso as one of the best ice creams in Rome and the entire Lazio region.

My thoughts. The server was a little rude but likely due to being overwhelmed with having to serve all those people alone. And the ice cream was nice but not the best I had.

I only tasted one flavor – “nocciola” or hazelnut. I treat this flavor as my margherita. If you didn’t know there’s a saying in Italian, that holds that the best pizza connoisseurs judge a pizzeria after tasting their margherita. It’s because if they can’t get the iconic one right, why bother trying the rest?

That’s my approach with ice cream. I always try hazelnut, and sometimes I pair it with tiramisu or chocolate, two other classic gelato flavors.

My husband loved his, but he is not a food snob and he appreciates anything that tastes fine (haha), unlike me who is always looking for the best.

Joking aside, this is a good ice cream spot in Rome, but if you want an ice cream to wow you, try the Gelateria della Passera in Florence.

2. Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti

In Via della Luce, 21, Trastevere, Rome

I have always had an obsession with Italian butter biscuits, especially those with apricot jam and chocolate. This might help you understand why I went hunting for this biscuits shop instead of waiting for l’Elementare to open. Luckily, there was plenty of time to go, choose the biscuits, get the goodies, and go back. We arrived 10 minutes past opening but there were still empty tables outside.

The biscuits were delicious, and I ate them nearly all by myself after the aperitivo, and decided to skip dinner.

They weren’t the best butter biscuits I had but you see I had a lot, not only in Italy, but also all across Europe. The best still remain the ones I ate as a child in Sicily.

The highlight was seeing so many butter biscuits all in the same spot. Thank goodness the lady packs them for you, as I would have had issues stopping putting more in my bag. She was so lovely and told me that she had been eating biscuits all day. I was glad I found a fellow lover of these biscuits!

Tiramisu Trastevere

3. Tiramisu Merisu

In Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 29, Rome

Warning: If you want the best tiramisu in Rome, this is not it! I suggest you read my Best Tiramisu In Rome post, where I review and compare the most popular 3 tiramisu spots in the capital, and share the best one.

However, if you want to try another tiramisu and judge for yourself, this one has many flavors and also caters to different intolerances.

4. Elisa Gelateria Trastevere

In Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 19, Rome

I actually haven’t tried their ice cream, but their pastry counter lured me in after dinner in Trastevere, and I purchased two to take home and enjoy as a dessert after packing my luggage. I can confirm it was a very tasty and much deserved treat :). Of course, I didn’t eat them all by myself, I shared them with my hubby!

I chose a diplomatico puff pastry with lemon cream and an occhio di bue biscuit with apricot jam. Apologies for the lack of pictures, but I was running out of charge. 

More Great Places To Eat In Rome

I hope you enjoyed this foodie guide to the lovely vibrant Trastevere neighborhood. If you want to eat more delicious food Rome has to offer, read these other posts next (all posts are coming soon):

Best Breakfast Spots in Rome

Best Sandwich in Rome

Best Tiramisu in Rome

Best Cacio e Pepe in Rome

Best Pizza in Rome

Best Supplì in Rome

Need help planning your Rome itinerary? Check out these posts: 5 Day In Rome Itinerary and How Many Days in Rome.

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